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久々のサーフィン


1ヶ月半振りサーフィンをしに湘南海岸鵠沼へ行ってきました。冬の海は人が少ない反面 風は冷たく水温も低いので、体力的に2時間が限界ですね。サイズは腰〜腹 風に煽られチャッピー気味。ワンアクション程度の波質でしたが、寒いながらも楽しめ、気分もスッキリしました。

I went to Shonan Beach Kanuma for surfing for a month and a half ago. There are few people in the winter sea, but the wind is cold and the water temperature is low, so it is physically 2 hours is the limit. Size is fucked by waist ~ belly wind and it is Chappy. It was a wave quality of about one action, but I enjoyed it even though it was cold, I felt refreshed.

 

自宅から車で高速をはしり朝なら1時間30分で着きます。千葉の一宮海岸と悩んだんですが、水温の温度で鵠沼海岸に決めました。空気も澄んでいたいたのか富士山がくっきり見え、富士山横目に何本かセットをキャッチ!日ごろからストレッチをしてるせいか寒さにも負けず体は動きました。1時間ぐらい過ぎるとブーツを履いていなかったため足が冷え、感覚がなくなってきました。うぁ~と思いながらも「せっかく来たからもう1時間やろうと」気合を入れてセット待ち。風がだんだんと強まってきて今度は頭が冷えてきました。顔の感覚は寒さで麻痺しはじめ「そろそろ限界」と思いあがりました。

I will get off at high speed from my house and get there in the morning in 1 hour and 30 minutes. I was worried about the Ichinomiya coast in Chiba, but decided on the Kugeuma Coast by the temperature of the water temperature. Mt. Fuji clearly visible, I caught some sets at Mt. Fuji! Due to stretching from my everyday, my body moved without losing the cold. After about an hour it was cold feet because I was not wearing boots, my feeling has gone. Although I thought that it was "waiting for another hour because I came all the way" waiting for a set with a spirit. The wind gradually strengthened and my head got cold now. The feeling of the face started paralyzing with the cold, and I thought that it was "the limit soon".

 

20代の頃は真冬でも毎日のように入水し、疲労感なんてなかったのに30代後半ともなるとパドル疲れや出た後の疲労感は半端ありません。明日でとうとう38歳になります。1年1年が特急のように早く感じ、家族の為に色々頑張らないといけません。

せっかく生まれてきたのですから、子育ても重要ですけど自分自身の人生を楽しむことも重要です。いつか下の子と一緒に海に入れたらいいと思いますが、そのころまで体力が持つかどうか心配です。その日を夢見て毎日頑張ろうと思います!

When I was in my twenties, I went into the water like every day even in the midwinter, and when I was in my late thirties even though I did not feel exhausted, I feel exhausted after having exhausted the paddle and getting out. At tomorrow it will be 38 years old at last. One year and a year feel like an express as soon as possible, and I have to keep doing my best for my family.

 

Since childbirth is also important, it is also important to enjoy your own life. I hope someday I can put it in the ocean with the lower child, but I am worried about whether I will have physical strength until that time. I dream about that day and I will try my best everyday!